Wilma Johnson was living on the west coast of Ireland with her husband and three children, balancing the challenges of being an artist, wife and mother, until, in her forties and with a deep desire to seize the day, she moved to Biarritz and became a surfer.The waters of her new life are sometimes troubled and relationships aren't always steady; she splits with her husband, her children don't speak French and she lives with a growing menagerie. Her first attempts at surfing are disastrous: bruises, broken bones and a damaged ego the result, but when she sets up the Mamas Surf Club and experiences the euphoric feeling of catching her first wave, it's all worth it.
I will never forget the story from my good friend at Rhodes University in the 1980s , Wayne ' Sparky ' McMillan . He recalled how one of the country's most infamous shark attacks unravelled before his eyes . His friend Alex Macun was ...
Lobo do mar: a coragem do homem, a bravura do mar, a forca da sabedoria
Authorised biography of an Australian surfer whose revolutionary technique led to him becoming four times consecutive world champion from 1979 to 1982.
This book portrays the ultimate battle between the elements and mankind: the water and the waves against the board and man.Of related interest: Surf ISBN 9789089896544 - $15.95
Providing a comprehensive look at the sport's eras, locations, and legends, with a host of stunning images and a glossary of surfing terms, this is a truly unforgettable look at the obsession of those who face down monstrous waves.
Professional longboarder Sam Bleakley details a decade of extreme global surf travel.
Looking for Something to Find
parents and loves his brother, but he is inclined to solitude and likes the idea of wandering and observing. When he makes some money on the stockmarket in the early ... a ten-pound Pom. While she is on the boat, Syer White dies of ...
In Surfer's Code: 12 Simple Lessons for Riding Through Life, world champion surfer Shaun Tomson shares the life lessons he's gathered from decades of surfing-from his boyhood adventures in South Africa to the world tour in the late 1970s to ...
Surfer's Code: 12 Simple Lessons for Riding Through Life